Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Visit to see my Uruguayan family!

This past weekend I went to visit my family in Montevideo! It was so nice to see them again and be back in their beautiful house! It was a strange feeling to be back in the city after four years. I remembered somethings as they hadn't changed but I was surprised how much I had forgotten. Here are a few pictures...
Outside the casa :) ...with pretty flowers in bloom!

Lunch with my family :) mi madre is the BEST cook.

Madre outside in the back of the house, which has been redone since I was last there.

 Mis hermanos, Santiago y Florencia 

With mis padres! 

 Sunset on the boat leaving Colonia, Uruguay

class trip to ESMA

In my Latin American culture class, we traveled to ESMA, Escuela de Mecanica de la Armada, which was the largest illegal detention center of its kind during the Dirty War (1976-1979). About 5,000 people were taken and tortured and murdered (or "disappeared"). There were only 200 survivors. Many were killed in "death flights" in which the victims were sedated and then thrown into the Rio de la Plata from airplanes. Most detainees were held in the concentration camp for about 15 days. They were forced to stay in a small blocked off wooden space separate from other detainees. They were given just enough space to lay down but no room to move. They were allowed to use the bathroom once a day if the officer wanted to escort them. There last days were spent being tortured in the basement and then they were "transferred," which really meant they were going to be killed. All of this went on in the Officers' Mess. The attic was where most were kept and the basement was the main place of torture. Meanwihle, officers slept and lived with their families on the first and second floors. The ground floor was where they ate and had their conferences and meetings. It was shocking that these officers stayed in the same building in which these poor people were being tortured. 
Here are some pictures. We were only allowed to take photos outside of the buildings because some of the officers are still being charged and going to trial.

This is the entrance in which all detainees entered, hooded and shackled. ESMA was built right in the city and in plain view. Although some things were kept private, the public aspect of this camp was to create fear.

Pathway leading to the Officers' Mess

The Officers' Mess

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Class trip to Calle Florida

On Thursday, our literature teacher Guido took us to Florida street. There are a lof of historical sites and places that various important people either frequented or lived at. We met at London City, a cafe wherJulio Cortázar wrote Los Premios. We have been reading some of his work in class so it was neat to see the exact place where he wrote what we had already read. After, we walked around to a few other sites.

Here are a few pictures from our trip:

Cafe Tortoni is over 150 years old. This was a favorite spot of Carlos Gardel and Jorge Luis Borges.


Oh, just your average mall in Buenos Aires, thGalerias Pacifico. 

The class with our professor, Guido.

After we walked inside the largest Burger King in South America. It used to be the residence of the Argentine president,  M.T. de Alvear but was then converted into a fast food restaurant with three floors.

I found it a bit sad that such a gorgeous building would be converted into a fast food chain from the United States. 


Spring Break in Punta del Este, Uruguay

Last week I was on Spring Break in Punta del Este with a few girls from my program. We first stayed in a hostel ,El Viajero- Brava Beach, in downtown Punta del Este for 2 nights. On the third night, we moved to another hostel called El Biajero- Manantiales, which was located about 20 minutes away. Manantiales was more relaxing and filled with people our age and great for surfing. We layed on the beach every day and had great weather. At night, we cooked up some delicious meals with friends we had met at the hostel. It was a great hostel experience. 
Here are some photos I took of the trip:
Brava Beach!
(Notice how the beach is EMPTY. It was the final week of Summer for them. We had perfect weather, 80s and sunny all week!)

Inside the first hostel:

With mis amigas from Brazil, Juliana and Grazi, inside the hostel before the beach!

Sunset at the port

Our second hostel by Bikini Beach

 Dinner with our new friends from Australia! We grilled fresh fish, shrimp, and vegetables. 

The view from El Viajero- Manantiales:

The bar and pool at the hostel

Bikini Beach


It was great to get back to Uruguay after so much time in Buenos Aires. The fresh air and more relaxed vibe outside of the city was a nice break.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Northwest Trip

Just got back from our trip to Salta and Jujuy provinces in Argentina. It was an incredible time with sites and views unlike any that I have ever seen. On the first day (Thursday), we flew into Salta mid-afternoon and spent the rest of the day there. We went to a school to bring supplies and visit the students. I made a friend and his name was Leonardo. He was quite the charmer and loved my sunglasses and getting his picture taken:

After the school we were able to visit some of the older churches in Salta. The first was the Catedral Basilica de Salta. It was absolutely stunning. The church bells were rung in beautiful melodies by a group of men in the bell tower. I loved the architecture and intricate designs both inside and outside of the pink church.

That night we went to a restaurant called "La Chueca," where we ate some delicious empanadas and I had locro, a traditional northwestern stew with veggies and meat. The flavors were bold and quite spicy and I enjoyed every spoonful. 
We spent Thursday night in Salta at the Posada Angelus hotel. On Friday, we woke up bright and early and headed 4 hours out to the province of Jujuy. The mountains went on for miles. As we drove through the windy roads and farther up the mountains, the increasing altitudes started to make me dizzy and feel weak. Fortunately I had brought some excedrin and after one of those I was able to walk around and felt better. The natives and often travelers will chew on coca leaves or drink mate coca so help alleviate some of the side effects of altitude sickness. The locals are all humble yet incredibly proud of their land and who they are as a people. Here was our first stop in Jujuy in front of some of the mountains at the foothills of the Andes:
Then we went to the highest point in Jujuy, Cuesta del Lipán at 4170m.o.s.l. This was where most the girls and myself had the most trouble breathing, but it was absolutely gorgeous and worth it. The air was so pure and the wind was a nice chilly break from the summer warmth below. 
Here is Kalon standing at the highest point!
Kalon, me and Catie jumping at the Cuesta del Lipán!
We continued on to the Salinas Grandes (salt lakes) in Jujuy where we saw some neat wildlife and some of the actual mountains of the Andes from afar. The animals below are called vicuñas. These are one of two wild South American camelids found in the high alpine areas of the Andes. Don't get too close though, as they can be aggressive.

The salt lakes were unlike anything I have ever seen. You could see the reflection of the sky but needed sunglasses as it was bright like snow. We walked across the salt lake with bare feet. It felt like a smooth salt rub that you'd pay big bucks for at Bath & Body Works... and here I was getting a pedicure rub for free! My skin was so smooth after and the salt was so clean and natural. It was truly amazing.
Cameron, Samantha, Kalon, Fallon, Adrianne, and me... walking on the salt lake!
After the salt lakes we drove to Purmamarca, Jujuy to eat lunch and hike the Montaña de los siete colores. We tried llama for lunch (which tasted similar to meat but a bit more gamey) at Las Cañitas. This restaurant was a family's house opened to the public for some local eats. The hike was really neat with the different colored mountains. The red clay-like mountain contrasted with the teal colored mountains and they seemed to go on for miles. 
The pictures are great but nothing in comparison to the real thing. I wish the pictures did justice to the true beauty of this site. 
We left for Tilcara after the hike to check into our hotel, Vientonorte. We ate dinner at La Carmela that night and tried the local tamales, empanadas, and locro. Once again, the flavors were robust and unique to the Northwest. We spent some time out in the center of the town for Carnaval. 
Below are some locals from Tilcara in the central square. They have flour on their face. It is a tradition of Carnaval in the Northwest as it is a time of celebrating fertility of the land and flour comes from wheat which comes from the earth. 

Here is a view from my hotel room in Tilcara the next morning: 

On Saturday we visited Pucará de Tilcara, a fortress about 900 years old and strategically built on the Quebrada de Humahuaca. It was an ideal place on top of a hill to defend against attacks. There are various houses that were built to blend in with the mountain, a church, places for sacred ceremonies, and areas for llamas to roam. 



After Tilcara on Saturday, we made our way to Humahuaca, a small town in Jujuy. On our way we drove over the Tropic of Capricorn (Southern Tropic) one of the five major circles of latitude that mark maps of the Earth.
When we arrived in Humahuaca, it appeared to be another quiet little town... 
However, things soon would change. We noticed lots of flour, baby powder and cans of foam spray being sold. We saw people covered in powder but just assumed they must be celebrating Carnaval pretty hard.... until someone ran up behind me and powdered my entire face with a huge handful of flour. Initially, I was so mad because I was the first and only person with flour all over my face, sunglasses, hair, clothing, etc. until more people came and started throwing flour and spraying the rest of the group with flour and foamy spray. Ruben, our program director, decided we needed revenge and bought all of us bags of flour, baby powder, and foam bottles. When we got over the fact that we were going to be quite dirty it was so fun. People of all ages were participating and celebrating Carnaval in a very mischievous yet playful manner. We got some people good and then when we ran out of supplies, those people came back for us! It was a great day even though we had a five hour bus ride after back to Salta... covered in powder, flour, and foamy soap.
I managed to get one picture of me and Tori partway through the day:
We were absolutely covered but I must say, I have not had that much fun in a long time! 
Here is a picture of the Carnaval spray and a bag of flour:

When we arrived back in Salta, we celebrated Kalon's birthday and then went out to dinner at the Casa de Güemes where a show was performed with dancing and live music. 

The next morning we woke up and visited the MAAM museum (Museum of High Altitude Archaeology) with naturally preserved mummies of multiple Inca sacrifices that were discovered in the high Andes right ouside of Salta. There are three different mummies but only one is out at a time and they are rotated every 3 months to keep them preserved as the AC and presence of people can ruin them. Here is a picture of the boy mummy that was sacrificed when he was about five years old. 
(I did not take this picture but got it off the internet as security was tight and cameras weren't allowed.)

After the museum we visited the market. There was not much open as it was Sunday. A few of the girls ended up quite ill over the course of the trip with 72 hours of stabbing pains in the abdomen, fevers, and fainting. I am not sure if it was the food, the water, or a bug. I am glad I didn't get it though and am knocking on wood in hopes that I stay healthy for my Spring Break trip to Uruguay. 
The plane ride back was nice. They give you drinks (with refills), crackers, a shortbread lemon cookie, and alfajores. Not too shabby for a two hour flight, especially in comparison to the US flights where you are lucky to get 3 pretzels if it is an extra long flight :P

I am now off to Punta del Este, Uruguay until Sunday! I was unable to do laundry today though as it is a national holiday today and tomorrow so nobody works. We are planning on stocking up on some staple foods before we leave to cook in the hostel as food over there on the beach can be a bit more expensive. The Buquebus boat leaves at midnight and we will get to Colonia, Uruguay where we will take a bus to Punta del Este. I am hoping the weather clears out for us, it is a bit rainy today.